Let's talk chalk.

kram115 · 2012-05-26T02:15:19.037017+00:00

I tried Bison but it didn't last long enough. I am stocking with metoulis for now, but I just got a sample of primo chalk and it smells magical. I might consider getting some when I run out of my main stash of normal chalk, but it is pretty expensive.

rift321 · 2012-05-26T02:03:19.327811+00:00

Muira VS and Anasazis have both worked great for me.

rift321 · 2012-05-26T02:02:10.685361+00:00

Other than the other suggestions, I found it interesting that when I was using a sample primo chalk ball and stored it in my bag with my shoes, my shoes ended up smelling like the promo chalk (magical).

pentahelix · 1 day

The hate is directed at Mark Hurd and Larry Ellison. See what your dad thinks of these two jokers. It's only a matter of time before they cut budgets enough to make it miserable to work at Sun.

pentahelix · 2 days

Well, as an HP employee, Oracle lied about HP too. They are douches trying to litigate their Sun hardware business into relevancy, which they can't do because their hardware blows.

thenatattack15 · 2 days

Yeah, I was going to link to him, but even so, Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, all probably do not possess the kind of strength that Midtboe has, but they are all still considered to be better climbers. If you look at the full video, you can actually see he isn't really brute forcing through his climbs and his technique is key over brute force.

I was working on the one finger pull-up at the beginning of this year (got down to 2 fingers, close to 1), and I realized that it is kind of a waste of time. Very rarely will you come across a climb where you have to pull on one finger completely, so why even bother?

scriptbitch · 2 days

Sorry, I don't have much love for NTOPC. The guys who own/manage the place are great teachers, but I simply wasn't impressed with the place in terms of climbing quality. It's great for endurance training, but I rarely ever go there since climbing a non-featured face is not really that fun.

scriptbitch · 2 days

There is another gym in downtown Carrolton which is worth checking out a couple of times since it is built into grain silos and 120 ft tall. But it is pretty 'meh' in the long term.

thenatattack15 · 2 days

I saw a lot of fearless/idiotic attributes; most climbers I know are pretty risk averse. I am a decently strong climber, but I can't do a lot of the balance moves since you don't need to be able to do a hand stand or flag in order to climb strong.

scriptbitch · 2 days

I started my climbing career with this group (http://www.dfwclimbers.com/), and everyone is really great and beginner friendly; especially on Wednesdays at Exposure.

scriptbitch · 2 days

Exposure will be a better bet than Summit (distance wise) if you are in Plano. Same goes for Frisco Canyons.

thenatattack15 · 2 days

This is the physique of one of the best climbers in the world. These guys could easily be gymnasts over climbers since nothing they are doing requires much more than brute strength. I can attest to this personally, since I am an average climber with more brute strength [in pullups] than the guy I linked to.

thenatattack15 · 2 days

They are equally likely to be some sort of gymnast. The video indicates they have brute strength but not much to attest to their climbing ability.

scriptbitch · 2 days

Well, I guess I can give you the run down at least. We have 4 quality gyms in the Dallas area. Summit, Exposure, Dallas Rocks, and Frisco Canyons. The "belay certification" at all these gyms is a joke. IMO, Summit is the best gym in terms of route quality. Also, Summit is also the only gym with auto-belays if you want to go by yourself and not boulder. Dallas Rocks is mainly a bouldering gym (bouldering may be out of your range if you climb 5.5 though), and has thick padded floors in the bouldering area; they also have top rope setups though. Exposure and Frisco Canyons have a similar feel, though Frisco has higher walls and is newer. Exposure and Dallas Rocks are the most centrally located to the Dallas area.

tbryan987 · 3 days

Same here. The best route I have ever climbed.

dbzltm · 3 days

Yeah, a friend of mine made it onto American Ninja Warrior. He does parkour and is also a climber - also a redditor. If I wanted to do it, I would definitely need to work on my parkour like skills; there isn't a ton of running starts in climbing.

wonderbread11 · 4 days

As a Texan, I laughed. Though I can't climb in <50 weather, so I guess that would make me a hypocrite.

shgbrftxsbd · 4 days

They are very busy with all the random pieces of "leather" and different colors. The sole is also pretty ugly.The shoe is trying to do too many things by being both a casual shoe and "dressier" shoe and it fails to do either well.

I, personally, substituted my pair of sketchers with this pair of Chukka Keds and the brown version of this pair of wing tips. They aren't the nicest shoes, but at 90 bucks for both, I was able to completely outclass those sketchers for slightly more money.

shgbrftxsbd · 4 days

This guide is great for fit, but there is too much text for a info-graphic like this. Just because this doesn't detail everything about fashion, it is a good starting point for people who don't even know where the hell to begin.

shgbrftxsbd · 4 days

The problem with this guide is that practically everyone already knows they should own a few t-shirts, good jeans, and some blazers

Uhh... what? That was not the case at all when I came here. I didn't know a single damn thing about fashion. I thought these looked good, would wear dumb graphic tees, baggy ill-fitted jeans/pants/dress shirts, etc. I was a complete ghost here for the first 4 months out of sheer ignorance. Just because we aren't commenting, doesn't mean we aren't here.

rift321 · 7 days

Any training recommendations?

rift321 · 7 days

I am aware that I smear a lot, but it's mostly due to the fact that I am 5'6 and things are out of reach a lot.

rift321 · 7 days

My biggest problem is that I tend to smear a lot since I am 5'6 and a lot of footholds are more inconvenient to use than for me to power over them. My footwork only really breaks down towards the top of my climbing range. Anything 5.11b or below, my footwork is pretty solid on, it's just when I reach the top of my ability, everything starts to break down.

rift321 · 7 days

I am completely burning through my shoes at my current climbing rate. I have been climbing for a year now and go to the gym for 3 hours a day for 5 days/week on average, and I keep burning through the toes like they are butter. Most of the problem stems from the fact that my strength FAR outweighs my footwork, which allows my crappy footwork to persist since I keep moving higher in grades (currently boulder V5/V6 and getting into 5.12s) and my footwork is always lagging my strength. A month and a half ago, I upgraded to a pair of Muiras. Most people told me some of my shoe issues would be alleviated so I would at least get more than 2 months out of a pair, unlike my last pair; however, the Muiras are already showing little flaps in the toe. I feel like it is less than a month before they give out too. What can I do about this other than getting them resoled constantly?

rift321 · 7 days

Prioritize hips when you are actually making the move for the next hold; prioritize arms when you are resting/not ready to make the next move. If you have to engage you arms to pull into the wall, you want them to be engaged for as little time as possible.

gfxlonghorn

TROPHY CASE

gfxlonghorn

TROPHY CASE

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