My Buddy on His Project in Maple Canyon, UT

bstockton · 2 days

Thanks for sharing this, I didn't know of Maple Canyon before this and it looks like a great Utah sport climbing area.

brandoncoal · 10 days

Mind = blown.

droctagon93 · 11 days

When are you thinking of being there? I know sometimes, back in the past, people planned climbit RRG meetups.

soupyhands · 16 days

Thanks. I do like the idea of text only flair. The images look a little silly IMHO. Maybe we can just state type of climbing and grade you lead/TR/boulder.

Edit: Ok ok ok, grade is a bad idea.

mtbrex · 18 days

I have both an ATC Guide and GriGri2, but I climb single-pitch sport. For me the biggest expense associated with climbing is finding the time to do it, so I don't have a problem with spending a little more for multiple belay devices. Any tube style device will be just fine for rappelling and not that pricey.

mtbrex · 18 days

If you are sport climbing, you can also use the GriGri2. Works perfectly with small diameter ropes.

biotech9 · 18 days

Gates, in general, should always face away from the direction of travel. Makes it much more difficult for something like this to happen.

makesureimjewish · 21 days

I lead 5.10's and I can hardly do a V3 boulder problem. I really don't think you are actually doing V3's if you struggle to climb a 5.8. On those lines, I don't think you are ready. Step out of the bouldering cave and on some ropes. I agree that you should probably be able to flash most of the 10's in your gym before hopping on lead.

bshacklett · 25 days

Some packs have straps to tie the rope down over the top of it. I think a lot of climbing packs will have this ability for long approaches.

matt4 · 1 month

4 seems a little on the small side. I use 6mm for my backups and it seems to grip ok for my rope.

furrytoothpick · 1 month

Obviously you have never graded before. Its a huge pain in the ass.

the_birds_and_bees · 1 month

The link that hanexer posted shows that the nylon failure is only marginally better though, maybe 10-15%. I guess maybe its good to have these videos to let less experienced people realize that there are a lot of things to consider. And that there are no hard and fast rules. If you don't understand the basics (or in this case the more advanced details) you can get hurt/killed.

the_birds_and_bees · 1 month

Please correct me if I have some errors... These videos always seem a little sensationalized because these fall situations don't really ever arise unless you are doing something terribly wrong. Let me explain:

You won't ever get a static stop of fall-factor 2 with only a sling unless you climb the full length of the sling above your anchor and fall the full length down with no rope in the system. If you are belaying your partner and he takes a tumble putting in the first piece (and falls the full rope length below you), this is not the same situation because the dynamic nature of the rope will spread out the peak load onto your anchor sling. Additionally, if you have at least a 2 point equalized anchor, your partner's fall would need to generate twice the breaking strength of sling for it to fail.

What I would prefer seeing is how this test occurs with a dynamic rope in the system. The video makes it seem like you are belaying someone with only a doubled up sling. For top roping, this isn't even an issue because the maximum possible fall factor is 0.5 (but that would mean your partner decking from the top of the climb, so the anchor isn't really all that important then). On a 100 foot top-rope climb, if your partner falls 10 full feet near the top of the climb (still a rather shitty belay) you only will get a fall factor of roughly 0.1 (10/110 technically).

Thoughts?

bshacklett · 2 months

tinyOnion covered a lot of good material. The short answer is a lot. I would strongly recommend you start leading sport (in the gym first) before venturing into trad territory.

For single-pitch sport leading (the best starting point), you'll likely only need material to build an anchor off bolts or chains and an autoblock for rappelling. If the route is severely overhanging you may want to have a prussik setup to climb the rope after a fall.

Check to see if you even like leading outside before you consider buying your own trad rack. Its a lot different than top roping in the gym.

dontfeedthenerd · 2 months

I just enjoy climbing, I guess that is not allowed.

rhetorikill · 2 months

My thoughts exactly. The OP also organized the results in the most convoluted way possible. Put a graph in a document and people will think its legitimate.

If there is correlation to when the votes were counted to when they were cast, then this could clearly be a case of demographics. A perfect example of application of utilizing unjustified assumptions.

nekidfrog · 3 months

Poop tube. I have never used one, but essentially you shit into a PVC tube with a screw top lid. You bag your waste but still...

MallBn · 3 months

Miuras were like the glass slipper for me. Don't know if I'll ever get a different shoe.

TheAndrewSpence · 3 months

Well did she dye her hair somewhere between 26 and 22 days ago? Seems like pretty simple detective work to verify if it was her.

22 days ago
26 days ago

vanishingspy · 3 months

I'm guessing you don't live in the midwest...

cardern · 3 months

Yeah, lets still use pitons instead of nuts or other modern pieces of protection like they did in the good ol' days. I'm willing to bet that any new climber will appreciate the advances in climbing technology. I know I would certainly prefer an ATC guide for belaying from above over a standard ATC and especially over a figure 8.

rift321 · 3 months

What about focusing efforts on making sure mountainproject.com is up to date?

LTBarganier · 3 months

Ahhh, gotcha. 9.4 is pretty small. What I do to increase the friction when lowering is I take the rope in my brake hand and move it across my hips under the GriGri2. So it essentially is on the other side of the device and has to contact the right face of the GriGri before it travels through the camming part. I think it adds a little more friction to help to lower process.

GrahamDouglas · 3 months

I was there this past August. A few comments:

Hot, very hot.
To do Angel's landing, either do it early morning or late afternoon. You actually get a decent amount of shade on the early part of the hike if you start around 3-5 PM. On top, its all sun but hopefully by evening it has cooled a little.
Do Angel's Landing, no exceptions.
Do the Narrows. Check out Zion Adventure Company for good equipment rentals. I thought it was worth the money to have appropriate shoes.
If you go during the week you can get a first-come spot in one of the two campgrounds in the park. Just be sure to get there early.

If you want to do a full canyon start to finish you could do Orderville canyon in one day I think. You need to know a few technical skills (setting up a basic anchor and about a 20' rappel) to do Orderville, but from what I've heard its a little more narrow and picturesque than the Narrows. Zion Narrows are so overwhelmingly large you can't really capture it in a photo. Its an amazing experience.

I didn't do a whole lot of backcountry stuff when I was there, but don't hesitate to message me if you need any info.

SLCC

TROPHY CASE

SLCC

TROPHY CASE

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